When choosing a diamond, many factors come into play, from carat weight and cut quality to the shape itself. While carat weight is a key measure of size, the shape of the diamond can significantly influence how big it appears. Some diamond shapes tend to look smaller than others due to the way their weight is distributed, the depth of the cut, or other visual characteristics. In this guide, we'll explore which diamond shapes often appear smaller and why, helping you make a more informed choice when selecting your perfect diamond.

Factors Influencing the Perceived Size of a Diamond

The appearance of a diamond's size isn't always directly related to its carat weight. While carat measures the physical weight, certain factors can make a diamond look larger or smaller than it actually is. Understanding these factors can help you choose a diamond shape that aligns with your preferences.

Face-Up Appearance vs Carat Weight

When we talk about the size of a diamond, we're usually referring to its face-up appearance—how large it looks when viewed from above. Some shapes, due to their proportions, may not show as much of their weight on the top surface, making them appear smaller. The distribution of weight is crucial in determining how big a diamond looks in a setting.

How Cut Depth and Shape Affect Visual Size

The depth of a diamond's cut can influence its appearance. Diamonds with a deeper cut will have more of their weight concentrated below the surface, which can make them look smaller when viewed from above. Conversely, diamonds with a shallower cut may appear larger as more of their carat weight is spread across the surface.

Impact of Proportions and Length-to-Width Ratio

The proportions of a diamond also affect its size perception. Certain shapes, especially square or deep cuts, may appear more compact. On the other hand, elongated shapes tend to spread the weight, making the diamond appear larger.

Diamond Shapes That Tend to Look the Smallest

Not all diamond shapes maximise their carat weight when it comes to visual size. Here are some diamond shapes that often appear smaller than others due to the characteristics of their cut and shape.

Asscher Cut: The Deep Square Shape

The Asscher cut is a step-cut diamond with a square shape and deeply cut pavilion, giving it a distinct vintage appeal. However, this depth can make the diamond appear smaller than other shapes of the same carat weight, as much of the weight is hidden below the surface. The squared corners and step-cut facets mean less of the diamond's brilliance is spread across the table, resulting in a smaller-looking stone. If you love the Asscher cut, you can explore our Asscher lab-grown diamonds for high-quality options.

Cushion Cut: Rounded Edges and Deeper Pavilion

Cushion cut diamonds have a soft, pillow-like shape with rounded corners. This cut tends to have a deeper pavilion, meaning a significant portion of the carat weight is not visible from above. The shape’s proportions and depth can make it look smaller compared to shapes that have more of their weight spread across the top. While cushion cuts are celebrated for their romantic appearance and sparkle, they do not offer the same face-up size as elongated or shallower cuts. For beautiful cushion cuts, check out our selection of cushion lab-grown diamonds.

Princess Cut: Compact Shape with a Deep Pavilion

The princess cut, known for its sharp corners and square shape, can also appear smaller than other shapes. Its deep pavilion means much of the diamond's weight is beneath the table, resulting in a more compact look. The squared shape doesn’t provide the same visual length as elongated diamonds, which can make it appear less substantial. Although the princess cut has a modern and stylish appeal, its size appearance may not be as impressive as round or oval shapes. To find options in this popular style, browse our princess lab-grown diamonds.

Marquise Cut: Potential for Bow-Tie Effect

While the marquise cut is an elongated shape that can make a diamond appear larger, some factors can reduce its size perception. If the cut is too deep, it can hide some of the carat weight, making the diamond look smaller. Additionally, marquise diamonds can suffer from the bow-tie effect—a dark shadow across the centre of the diamond—that can detract from the diamond's overall appearance and make it seem smaller. To avoid this, look for a well-cut marquise diamond that minimises the bow-tie effect. Explore our collection of marquise lab-grown diamonds for well-proportioned choices.

Comparing with Diamond Shapes That Appear Larger

Not all diamond shapes create the same visual impact. While some shapes may look smaller, others tend to maximise their appearance due to their proportions and cut style.

Oval, Pear, and Emerald Cuts: Elongated Shapes That Maximise Size Appearance

Elongated shapes like oval, pear, and emerald cuts tend to look larger than their actual carat weight because they spread the diamond’s weight across a larger surface area. The elongated form draws the eye along the length of the diamond, making it appear bigger. Check out our oval diamonds, pear diamonds, or emerald diamonds for shapes that maximise visual size.

Round Brilliant Cut: Balanced Shape That Can Look Bigger Due to Sparkle

The round brilliant cut, while not typically shallow, has an exceptional sparkle that draws attention and can make it appear larger than some other shapes. The brilliance created by the faceting pattern maximises the diamond’s fire and scintillation, often making up for the depth in terms of perceived size. Browse our round lab-grown diamonds to find round cuts that provide a classic yet impactful appearance.

Tips for Choosing a Diamond Shape That Maximises Visual Size

Opt for Shallow Cuts That Retain Brilliance

While a shallow cut can make a diamond appear larger from the top, it’s important to ensure the cut still allows for adequate brilliance. The right balance will help achieve a larger face-up size while maintaining sparkle.

Consider Elongated Shapes for a Larger Appearance

Shapes such as oval, pear, and marquise tend to spread their weight across a longer surface, making them appear bigger. If visual size is a priority, these shapes are great options for maximising the diamond's impact.

Enhance the Diamond with the Right Setting

Certain settings can help make smaller-looking shapes appear larger. For example, halo settings surround the centre diamond with smaller diamonds, creating a frame that boosts its visual size. Bezel and pavé settings can also enhance the diamond’s appearance. Explore fancy coloured diamonds to add a unique touch to your setting and make your diamond stand out.

Choose a Thin Band to Draw Attention to the Diamond

A thin or tapered band can create a contrast that draws the eye to the diamond, making it stand out more prominently. The thinner the band, the more significant the diamond appears in relation to the rest of the ring.

FAQs

Why do some diamond shapes look smaller than others?
Some diamond shapes appear smaller because of the way their weight is distributed. Shapes with deeper cuts or more compact forms may hide more of the weight below the surface, reducing the visible size from above.

Does cut quality affect how large a diamond appears?
Yes, the quality of a diamond's cut significantly affects its appearance. A well-cut diamond reflects light better, enhancing its brilliance and making it look larger. A deep or poorly cut diamond may appear smaller due to weight being concentrated below the surface.

Which diamond shape looks the biggest for its carat weight?
Elongated shapes such as oval, pear, and marquise tend to look larger than other shapes because they spread the diamond’s weight across a greater surface area. These shapes create the illusion of a bigger stone, even at lower carat weights.

Can certain settings make a diamond shape appear larger?
Yes, settings like halo, bezel, and pavé can make a diamond look bigger. A halo setting surrounds the centre diamond with smaller diamonds, creating a larger appearance, while a thin band can draw attention to the stone.

Is the Asscher cut a good choice if I want a diamond that looks big?
The Asscher cut is elegant and unique, but it may not be the best choice if you want a diamond that looks larger for its carat weight. Its deep cut and square shape can make it appear smaller than more elongated or shallow shapes.