When it comes to diamonds, there’s nothing quite like the captivating allure of a sparkling gem catching the light just right.

But not all diamond shapes are created equal when it comes to brilliance and sparkle.

Whether you’re selecting an engagement ring or simply curious about which shape shines the brightest, understanding the differences in diamond cuts can help you make an informed choice.

In this guide, we’ll take you through everything you need to know about diamond brilliance, which shapes offer the most sparkle, and tips for choosing the right one.

Understanding Diamond Brilliance and Sparkle

To understand which diamond shape is the most brilliant, it’s essential to grasp the concept of brilliance itself.

Brilliance refers to the amount of white light reflected from the inside of the diamond back through its surface.

When light enters a diamond, it reflects off its internal surfaces and returns to the eye, creating a dazzling effect.

Another crucial factor is sparkle, or scintillation, which is the play of light and dark areas within the diamond as it moves.

This dynamic effect is what creates those dazzling flashes of light that make diamonds so mesmerising.

The shape, cut quality, and facet arrangement all play vital roles in determining how much a diamond sparkles.

What Affects Diamond Brilliance?

There are three primary factors that influence a diamond's brilliance: the quality of the cut, the diamond’s shape, and its carat weight and proportions.

  • Cut Quality: This is the most significant factor. A well-cut diamond will reflect more light through the top of the diamond, resulting in greater brilliance. The quality of a diamond's cut is determined by its proportions, symmetry, and polish.
  • Diamond Shape: Different shapes reflect light in distinct ways. Some shapes have a higher number of facets and complex faceting patterns that can maximise brilliance.
  • Carat Size and Depth: The proportions of the diamond affect how light moves within it. A diamond that is too deep or too shallow will lose light from the bottom or sides, reducing its brilliance.

Exploring the Most Brilliant Diamond Shapes

Diamonds come in a variety of shapes, each with its unique attributes.

Let’s explore some of the most popular diamond shapes and how they measure up in terms of brilliance and sparkle.

Round Brilliant Cut: The Most Sparkling Choice

When it comes to brilliance, the round brilliant cut is unmatched.

This shape is specifically designed to maximise sparkle, with 58 facets strategically placed to reflect the most light possible.

The round shape is not only the most popular choice for engagement rings but also the brightest.

The symmetrical nature of the cut allows light to bounce around the diamond and reflect back to the observer, creating a mesmerising sparkle that’s hard to beat.

The round brilliant cut’s facets are arranged in such a way that they achieve the perfect balance between brilliance and dispersion (the separation of light into colours).

This is why, when you see a round diamond under the light, it often seems to sparkle more than other shapes.

Princess Cut: A Brilliant and Modern Square

The princess cut comes in second for brilliance, offering a remarkable sparkle that rivals the round brilliant.

Its square shape and multiple facets give it a dazzling appearance, and it's often considered the best choice for those seeking a more contemporary look.

The faceting pattern is similar to that of the round brilliant, but with a square or rectangular shape that adds a touch of edginess.

Princess-cut diamonds are designed to maintain a high level of brilliance even with a larger surface area.

The facets help direct light back through the top of the diamond, making it an excellent option for engagement rings that need a bit of extra sparkle.

Cushion Cut: Vintage Charm Meets Sparkle

The cushion cut is a blend of old-world charm and modern brilliance.

This shape features rounded corners and larger facets, which create a "crushed ice" effect, giving the diamond a distinctive sparkle.

Cushion-cut diamonds can exhibit high levels of brilliance if they are cut to the right proportions, making them an attractive choice for those who appreciate a touch of vintage elegance with plenty of sparkle.

The cushion cut's appeal lies in its versatility; it can be square or rectangular and still provide a brilliant display.

The unique facet arrangement makes it ideal for those who enjoy a more traditional look with a sparkling twist.

Oval Cut: Elongated Elegance with Brilliant Sparkle

The oval cut offers a similar level of brilliance to the round brilliant but with an elongated shape that can make the diamond appear larger than its carat weight would suggest.

This shape has a modified brilliant cut faceting pattern, ensuring it catches the light beautifully.

The oval's elongated shape also helps to accentuate the length of the fingers, making it a popular choice for engagement rings.

Because of the way it is cut, an oval diamond can have excellent brilliance and scintillation, especially if it is free of the "bow-tie" effect (a dark area in the centre that occurs due to light leakage).

A well-proportioned oval cut will sparkle just as brightly as a round brilliant.

Marquise Cut: A Unique Shape with Maximum Brilliance

The marquise cut is another elongated shape that offers significant brilliance.

With its pointed ends and long, narrow shape, the marquise can appear larger than other diamonds of the same carat weight.

This cut also maximises the diamond's surface area, making it an excellent choice for those who want a diamond that looks bigger than it is.

The marquise's faceting allows for plenty of light to be reflected back to the eye, creating a sparkle that can rival that of the more traditional round shape.

However, it’s essential to ensure the cut is well-proportioned to avoid the "bow-tie" effect that can reduce brilliance.

Other Diamond Shapes and Their Brilliance

While round, princess, cushion, oval, and marquise cuts are known for their brilliance, other shapes also offer significant sparkle, albeit to a lesser extent.

  • Pear Cut: Pear-shaped diamonds combine the best of round and marquise cuts. Their teardrop shape can offer good brilliance, but the "bow-tie" effect can impact their sparkle if not cut properly.
  • Radiant Cut: The radiant cut is a brilliant choice for those who want a rectangular or square shape with a high level of sparkle. Its faceting pattern allows it to reflect light well, though it may not achieve the same level of brilliance as a round or princess cut.
  • Heart Cut: Heart-shaped diamonds, while romantic, may not achieve the same level of brilliance due to their unique shape. However, a well-cut heart diamond can still offer plenty of sparkle.

Less Brilliant Diamond Shapes

Some shapes are not designed with brilliance as a primary focus.

These include step-cut diamonds like the emerald and Asscher cuts, which emphasise clarity and create a "hall of mirrors" effect rather than maximising sparkle.

  • Emerald Cut: The emerald cut has fewer facets than brilliant cuts, resulting in less sparkle. Its beauty lies in its clear, elegant look rather than its ability to reflect light.
  • Asscher Cut: Similar to the emerald cut but with a square shape, the Asscher cut offers a unique visual appeal but does not have the same level of brilliance as round or princess cuts.

Choosing the Right Diamond Shape for Maximum Brilliance

When choosing a diamond, there are several factors to consider to ensure you get the most sparkle for your money.

  • Consider Your Preferences: Brilliance is important, but so are personal taste and style. Think about whether you prefer the classic look of a round diamond or the modern appeal of a princess cut.
  • Evaluate Cut Quality: Always prioritise diamonds with high cut grades (Excellent or Very Good) to maximise brilliance.
  • Think About Size and Proportions: A diamond's proportions affect its sparkle. Make sure to choose a shape with ideal cut proportions for the best light performance.
  • Assess Light Performance Reports: Some diamonds come with light performance reports, which can help you understand how much brilliance and sparkle to expect.

Tips for Enhancing Your Diamond's Brilliance

To keep your diamond sparkling, follow these tips:

  • Choose a High-Quality Setting: Settings that allow more light to enter the diamond, such as prong or tension settings, can enhance brilliance.
  • Keep Your Diamond Clean: Dirt and oil can dull a diamond's sparkle, so regular cleaning is essential.
  • Consider Fluorescence: While some diamonds with fluorescence may appear more brilliant, others can look milky or cloudy. It’s worth considering how this factor might affect your diamond's appearance.

FAQs

Which diamond shape sparkles the most?
The round brilliant cut is renowned for its unmatched sparkle due to its 58 facets designed to reflect light more effectively than other shapes.

Are step-cut diamonds less brilliant than other shapes?
Yes, step-cut diamonds like emerald and Asscher cuts focus on clarity rather than brilliance, which results in less sparkle compared to brilliant cuts.

How does the setting impact a diamond's brilliance?
The setting plays a significant role in how much light can enter the diamond. Settings that allow more light exposure, such as prong settings, will maximise brilliance.